A. It costs almost as much to rebuild a 1.7,
1.8 as it does a 2.0 engine, and a 914 with an injected
2.0 engine is much more powerful than a 1.7, 1.8 as well
as $1500 more valuable. One would have to spend many extra
dollars to make a 1.7, 1.8 as powerful as a stock 2.0 engine.
Hence, starting with an injected 2.0 engine puts one miles
ahead. These engines are cheaper than you may think as we
have seen them sell at swap meets and the Porsche Panorama
magazine for as little as $400.00. Local junkyards who don't
know what they have usually "give away" these
engines. Unfortunately used 1.7, 1.8 engines are virtually
worthless so don't anticipate being able to sell or trade
yours.
B. When rebuilding the 2.0 engine, we are
careful to follow the factory manual to the letter. It is
self explanatory so we need not cover general rebuilding.
However we will cover the specific things the factory does
not.
1. The engine case: Has a tendency to warp
especially in the middle. Have a competent shop check
it and possibly align bore it. This will require special
bearings.
a. 75-76 cases are especially prone to
warpage beyond saving - especially in the cam shaft
bore. These engine cases, if not carefully checked,
cause a very hot running rebuilt engine!
b. We take the time to eliminate all casting
slag from inside the case and make it as smooth as a
baby's butt. We do not know how well this works, but
it has to reduce oil turbulence somewhat and let the
crankshaft spin easier!
c. Oil Galley plugs: By now many are loose.
We repair/replace them with a plumbing tap for a permanent
repair. Why rebuild your engine, increase the oil pressure
only to blowout old galley plugs and all of the new
oil!
2. The crankshaft. Always inspect for cracks
and polish and/or cut, but not beyond .25mm! 2.0 crank
counter balancing is difficult to do for clearance reasons
and is unnecessary below racing RPMs! We do, however,
carefully balance the front fan, crank, pistons, rods,
flywheel and pressure plate, all as one working unit.
3. The connecting rods: check for straightness
and rebush.
4. Camshaft: Always the factory one with
a matched timing gear. This is also the only one that
works the best with the fuel injection.
5. Lifters: Always the solid factory type
as hydraulic ones, although quieter, sacrifice top end
power and turn a 914 sports car into an economy car.
6. Pistons and cylinders: Always Mahle or
Kolbenschmidt with 8.0 to compression. The NPR kit is
no longer manufactured and the last 2.0 variety were actually
dished on the top!
7. Cylinder heads: Eight new values and
guides, combustion chambers carefully "cc'd"
and cut only enough for cleanup (2.0 heads cut too far
are garbage-can varieties and new ones are outrageously
priced!)
8. Fuel injection: new vacuum line kit,
head temp sensor, trigger points, throttle switch. All
of the other components, if still operational, we reuse.
Additionally use a 0 280 100 037 pressure sensor and an
inline 270 ohm resistor between the control unit harness
and head temp sensor lead (this combination provides more
top end power while still passing an emissions check.
C. Hopefully, by carefully following the factory
manual and observing these points, you will drive many successful
miles in your 914!
