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Tools Required:
The 914 cable is conducted upon a certain route
through the body via a conduit or tube. The tube is bracketed
in three places and spot welded so it will not move.
Because of the rigged nature of the clutch cable
repair roller assembly, excessive strain is put on the cable
and tube when the assembly gets dirty or the clutch cable
sheath melts. This strains the brackets and the tube finally
pulls loose.
This condition becomes evident when:
1. You have to constantly adjust your cable.
2. Stack washers under the adjusting nut.
3. Experience a standstill grind into first
or reverse gear, but the clutch releases "o. k."
when the throwout bearing arm is fully depressed at the
bell housing.
4. Find the clutch pedal to push extremely
hard.
5. Have a problem shifting into fourth and
fifth gear.
6. Hear a "pop" and the pedal goes
to the floor but the clutch cable doesn't break.
7. "Clanging" in center tunnel when
clutch pedal is depressed and released.
8. Ripping of sheet metal at the firewall.
The remedy is simple. Reposition the tube and
reweld it. The actual repair is more difficult because the
center tunnel must be cut open to access the tube. The repair
procedure is as follows:
We first start by removing the clutch and accelerator
cables, shift lever assembly, center cushion, floor carpeting
and driver's seat. At the left side of the shifter hole, in
the tunnel, you can see the accelerator tube stacked on the
larger clutch tube. You may at this time notice a shiny spot
on the tube near the bottom of the shifter where it has been
hitting. Grab the clutch tube and shake it to see if it is
loose. Using a flashlight, put your cheek on the center tunnel
and look forward to the U bracket holding the two tubes. Measure
forward to this point and cut a 3"x4" access door.
Open the center cut out towards the front of the vehicle.
Locate the clutch tube and old bracket (it is "U"
shaped). In an extreme case you will notice the tube has actually
slipped forward and you will see, by lack of paint, where
the bracket used to cover the tube. You may wish to fabricate
and replace the front bracket. Using a wire brush on a drill,
clean the metal around the clutch tube were it meets the floor.
Grab the tube and push it back and into place. Fill the right
side of the tunnel with wet rags to protect the fuel lines.
Use a wire feed welder to securely weld the tube to the bracket
and the bracket to the body. Be sure to push the tube towards
the floor while doing this. Prime and paint before closing
the door and welding the cuts. Exercise extreme caution when
welding because of the close proximity of the plastic fuel
lines. We now move to the back firewall area.
If the tube was completely loose you may have
noticed just a hole at the firewall. This may require you
to pull the tube back through the firewall. The tube should
stick out about 1 1/2" from the firewall. If the firewall
has actually imploded, remove the access plate inside the
car under the center cushion and with a long screwdriver push
out the firewall. Grind all of the braze material off and
then push the tube through the opening in the firewall. Take
a small pair of vice grip pliers and clamp to the tube to
prevent the tube from pulling back into the tunnel. Do not
weld at this point. Go to the front access panel and be sure
the tube is in its original position. When welding near the
firewall you will be very close to the fuel lines but at your
own risk it is possible to weld without removing them. This
is how to do it. Remove the fuel line grommet from the left
side line and place a home made welding shield over the fuel
line and into the tunnel - this will isolate the line from
weld heat. Then proceed to reweld the tears and the tube solidly
using wet rags on the right side to protect the fuel lines.
Prime and paint this area thoroughly!
Finally, in an extreme case the center bracket
is also broken loose. Cut an additional door here just behind
the center brace (Refer to the diagram). Cut to the very beginning
of the wiring harness trough and then back 7" lifting
this newly cut door to the left. Usually the center bracket/brace
is deteriorated so you will have to make a U-bracket with
sheet metal. Bend the newly made bracket around the tube and
weld this formed bracket to both the tube and the floor. Prime
and paint thoroughly. This is also an ideal time to clean
and treat this center tunnel area to further prevent rust.
Reweld and touch-up the cut doors. Always weld one crack at
a time waiting more than ten seconds before welding again.
Weld cycles should be cooled with compressed air. (The heat
could melt wire, fuel lines, etc.) Monitor inside tunnel to
be sure that fire does not occur from paint or sealers. Reinstall
all parts, cleaning the clutch roller assembly and lightly
greasing the cable. Pay particular attention to the front
clevis bushing to make sure the hole in it is not egg-shaped
and the clevis pin is not worn!
Upon completion and with proper maintenance you will never
again experience the clutch tube problem!
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