914 Clutch replacement is easy, very economical and it doesn't require removal of the engine! All 19 required pieces are about $350 - $400 and shops charge $200 - $300 labor, no more! Here, we can do a perfect job in less than an hour and a half. Proper clutch replacement is as follows:

1. Put car in reverse; lock emergency brake; loosen rear wheel bolts.

2. Jack car on engine mounting bar only, to where rear valance is 4 feet off the ground. Support under jacking donuts only. Disconnect positive battery cable.

3. Remove rear wheels, muffler, speedometer and clutch cable connections, the 8 CV to transmission flange bolts, upper starter nut (accessed from engine compartment behind throttle body; 1.7, 1.8, or behind left rear plenum; 2.0) NOTE: An air driven impact wrench with a long extension will speed removal of the CV joint bolts.

4. Pry CV joints away from transmission output flange and bag CV joints with plastic bags (to keep dirt out).

5. Disconnect rear transmission ground strap, all starter wires, and reverse light switch.

6. Remove both shifter bar set screws (or on early models rear shift rod holder), disconnect shift bar and remove by pulling out under front floorpan.

7. Support the transmission with a floor jack, remove the four 13mm bolts holding the transmission mounts to the body and the remaining three nuts that secure the transmission to the engine. Install an additional jack stand under the back of the engine.

8. Lower the transmission with starter attached, pulling it out from under the car.

9. Begin clutch renewal with the transmission. Remove throwout bearing arm and remove the ball stud cup by breaking out with chisel. Install new cup in the arm and grease, check the tightness of the ball stud. Remove the throwout bearing guide tube and pull out the front transmission seal. Be careful not to damage the bell housing lip around the seal. Use a shim from your CV bolt to insulate the seal puller from the bell housing lip. This will keep the puller from digging into the lip. Grease the new transmission seal and tap it into place using a long extension and working around the perimeter of the seal. Install new throwout bearing clips and a new throwout bearing to the throwout bearing arm and reinstall into the bell housing. Be sure to slightly grease the guide sleeve. NOTE: If the front transmission seal or rear main seal has been leaking, it will be necessary to clean the grease and dirt out of the bell housing.

10. Remove the pressure plate and clutch disc. Install the flywheel lock and remove the flywheel.

11. Be careful not to breathe the dust from the clutch parts. Use an impact wrench or a flywheel lock and a 1/2 inch drive ratchet to remove the flywheel bolts. Be careful not to damage the flywheel sealing surface if you are trading in your flywheel core! Knock out the 3 dowel pins from the flywheel with a small drift.

12. Clean the new flywheel. Install only 2 of the three end play shims. If you do not reset the end play, you will destroy the engine as the crankshaft will move either excessively or not enough. Temporarily install the flywheel using the old crush plate. Torque the bolts to 80lbs. Reinstall the flywheel lock to prevent movement. Attach the dial indicator to the transmission shroud and measure the movement of the crankshaft, front to rear by pulling and pushing the flywheel. The desired play is 0.07 - 0.15mm. Take the end play measurement and subtract 0.07mm. This amount will be the desired thickness of the third shim. You may have to mis and match several shims to accommodate the desired dimension, but install no more than three!

13. Once the end play has been adjusted, remove the flywheel. Install the rear main seal, flywheel seal, needle bearing, and felt washer. The bearing should be set into the flywheel 1/8 inch to accommodate the felt washer. Make sure the needle bearing is greased. Install the 3 dowel pins from your flywheel. Install the flywheel with a new crush plate and retorque the bolts.

14. Using the clutch alignment tool, install the clutch disc. Be sure that the tall end of the clutch disc spline faces outward. Install the pressure plate, lightly pressing the pressure plate onto the dowels. Install by hand the 6 pressure - plate bolts and washers and then, in half turn increments, tighten the bolts until they are all snug. Torque the bolts to 18 ft. lbs.

15. Install the transmission to the engine and secure with the two lower nuts. To assist in installation, you may wish to leave the transmission in gear and grab the output flanges, turning both in the same direction until the transmission input shaft engages with the clutch disc. Install the clutch cable, first cleaning the roller assembly and adjust the pedal free play at the pedal to 3/4 inch. Assure that the new clutch is releasing, depress the clutch and attempt to turn the transmission output shafts by hand. Although difficult, you must be able to turn them. If the clutch does not release, now is the time to find out and correct the problem.If all is well, install the transmission and accessories in the reverse order of removal. Be sure that the transmission ground strap is clean and well attached. This is extremely important to avoid slow engine turnover and melted cables. Add grease to the two CV joints and make sure each CV joint has two roll pins installed. Be sure that the CV bolts are tightened to at least 30 ft. lbs. and that each bolt has a cone washer underneath the bolt head. Check the transmission fluid level. Visually inspect your work to ensure that nothing has been forgotten, replace the rear shifter bushings if worn or broken. Start the car while on jack stands to check for oil leaks. Reinstall wheels, lower car and retorque wheel bolts to 90 ft. lbs.

Congratulations! You have replaced your 914 clutch, hopefully for the last time!!

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