1. Jack the 914 on the engine mounting bar
high enough so you can roll under it and work. Support it
with two jack stands under the jacking donuts.
2. Remove the driver's floor carpet, pedal
pads, center carpeting, front black access plate and wooden
floor board.
3. Remove the rear 11 mm clutch adjusting
nut at the fork, the clutch cable wedge in the fork and
the nut on the roller assembly.
4. Free the banjo clip from the roller assembly
and remove the cable and roller from the housing. Slide
the old clutch cable boot off (if it is still there!) and
save.
5. Unclip the clevis pin from the front clutch
cable fork and remove. Pull the cable forward and unscrew
the clutch cable fork and locking nut from the clutch cable
end. Push out the clevis bushing from the pedal cluster.
6. Remove the cable from the back firewall.
Carefully inspect the back firewall at this time. Make sure
the tube is protruding and there is no evidence of firewall
cracking evident. If there is, or the tube is not protruding
(you just see a hole), proceed to review the "Clutch
Tube Repair Procedure". © 1991 by George Hussey
7. Using WD-40 with a spray wand attachment,
spray down the tube. This lubricates the inside of the tube,
helps eliminate rust and coats the inside of the tube for
easier cable installation.
8. Select the proper clutch cable: There are
three to choose from. (1) The original 914-4 which has the
exposed cable, surrounded with a white catheter and protruding
from the black sheath. (2) The 914-6 cable which is heavier
than the "four" cable and does not have the white
catheter. (3) The aftermarket "Terry" cable which
uses aircraft quality cabling. We always select the 914-6
cable. It is heavier duty than its four brother and is of
the proper length (we always find the Terry cables to have
too much cable and to be very expensive!)
9. Lubricate the chosen cable with grease
(lightly but thoroughly; you don't want it attracting too
much dirt) and install into the rear firewall tube pushing
it all the way forward until the gold collar engages with
the protruding tube.
10. Reach through the front access cover and
center tunnel and feel for the front end of the cable. Install
the locking nut and clutch cable fork (make sure the fork
is not cracked!) Screw the fork on until the cable threads
protrude 10 mm into the fork base. Lock the nut against
the fork.
11. Replace and grease the clevis bushing
in the pedal cluster (The old one was probably egg-shaped).
Carefully inspect the clevis pin, then connect the cable
fork to the cluster and pin it. Be very careful not to wrap
the cable around the accelerator cable! If you do, every
time you disengage the clutch, the engine will rev! (It
now may be a good time to vacuum this area!)
12. Reinstall the wooden floor board, access
plate center tunnel carpeting and pedal pads. Leave out
the driver's carpeting for clutch pedal stop adjustment.
13. At the back of the cable, install the
banjo clip and stretch the clutch cable boot over the threaded
cable end.
14. Thoroughly clean the roller and roller
assembly. Lightly grease the roller pivot.
15. Install the clutch cable into the roller
housing notch and bend the banjo clip around the assembly
until the point of the banjo clip fits into the hole in
the back of the roller assembly. Snug up the clutch cable
boot.
16. Wrap the cable around the roller and install
onto the roller pivot. Tighten the nut and then guide the
cable into the fork, securing it with the clutch cable wedge
and 11 mm nyloc. Make sure the wedge is the new factory
steel style. 914s were originally fitted with a plastic
wedge that often broke, stranding the motorist!
17. Tight the 11 mm nyloc nut until the clutch
pedal is at the very top of its travel. One should not be
able to pull the pedal up any farther. The pedal will have
tension on it but for the first 1/2" - 3/4" have
much less tension. This lesser tension is called free play
as the pedal is taking up cable assembly slack before actually
causing the clutch arm to engage the throwout bearing. This
free play keeps the throwout bearing from wearing against
the pressure plate fingers.
NOTE: If for some reason you run out of adjustment
and have to stack washers under the threaded end to achieve
adjustment, the clutch tube is broken in the tunnel. Again,
refer to the "Clutch Tube Repair Procedure". ©
1991 by George Hussy
18. Adjust the clutch cable stop: Thoroughly
warm the car and idle at 950 RPM. Push the clutch pedal
forward until first and reverse gear will engage smoothly
without grinding against the pedal. Tighten the stop to
the point where it rests against the depressed pedal. Reinstall
the driver's carpeting.
19. By now you should have a very easy pushing
clutch pedal and good disengagement of gears. Shortly you
may need to readjust the cable after it stretches out its
newness. From then on periodically recheck free play and
adjust. This should not be a common occurrence unless the
cable begins to strand (break) or the clutch tube is ripping
loose.
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